My visit to the Kabini backwaters area on 15th and 16th April 2008, was the third one for this year. It has been a monthly sojourn for me and every time it has been around the mid-month period. And so far these tours have been a mixture of overcast skies, some rains and wonderful wildlife sightings. The opportunities for wildlife photography have been great. But more on those later. Let me first tell you about this April tour.
Day 1: 15th April 2008
We left Bangalore a little late on 15th morning, having decided to skip Ranganthittu bird sanctuary, on the way to Kabini. My companions for this tour were: Dev, Gautham, Vijay and Srikanth. All of us except Dev are primarily Canon users. Dev is a hardcore Nikon man.
Journey through Mysore was uneventful and we checked into Kabini River Lodge by about 12:15 pm. It was indeed a pleasant surprise for me to see my uncles Mr. Prabhu Prasad and Mr. Sadanand, with their family, from Mysore, checking into the Kabini River Lodge on the same day.
By the time we geared up for the evening boat safari (on the Kabini backwaters), the skies became cloudy and the lighting levels dropped. We got into the boat with a fond hope that it would clear up by the time we had some wildlife to shoot. With unseasonal rain in February and March, the water level in the backwaters had not dropped. This meant that not much of elephant movement would be there, as plenty of water would be available in the jungles. Bheema, our trusted boatman, started to scan the horizon for any wildlife movement.
It was one of those days when the skies just wouldn’t clear up and it got murkier. Except for a few elephants, not much of wildlife was active. On the far banks of Bandipur, a big tusker was seen chasing off a Makhna (tuskless male elephant). Later, we witnessed an aerial attack on a Brahminy kite by a few Whiskered Terns and River terns. The terns were protecting their nesting sites.
With nothing much happening and the light fading fast, we decided to return to base. But as we turned around, the skies cleared a little and the sun started to peep. I saw some cormorants sitting on dry tree stumps and knew that they would make good subjects for silhouettes. And off we started shooting.

After a few runs, we were satisfied with our shots and decided to head back. I kept an eye on the setting sun and when it turned into flaming ball, decided to get a few more shots of cormorants silhouetted against it.

Cormorants are one of the best subjects for silhouettes!

I was able to shoot many more such images with a variety of permutations and combinations of the sun and cormorants. Not bad for a day when nothing seemed possible! The tourists on the jeep safaris had seen three leopards on the same evening. So the chances of some cat sightings on our jeep safaris, were pretty high.
Day 2: 16th April 2008 - Morning game drive
At about 6:15 am, we started our jeep safari with our trust lieutenant, Prem at the wheel. Prem has about 19 years of experience driving in these jungles and so he knows every stone (literally!) on the game paths! And his wildlife spotting skills are unmatched…so far!
As we were leaving for the safari, my uncle, Mr. Sadanand, wished us luck for good Wild dogs sightings. The wild dogs at Kabini had been elusive and not been seen for the past two months. The last sighting was in February 2008, when I had an opportunity to photograph a pack of 5 adults and 3 pups. My uncle’s best wishes would turn out to be prophetic later in the day….
It turned out to be a very misty morning and we were wondering if it was mid-April or was it winter! There was not much of wildlife movement- no alarm calls or visuals. The bird life was active with lots of sightings of babblers, rollers, magpie robins and the woodpeckers were found flying about. The unseasonal rains in summer had turned the forest into a green zone. The forest was lush green and this was very different from the dry jungles that I have seen in previous visits during summer.
The first wildlife we chanced upon was a young gaur, who seemed to be distracted by some langur alarm calls in the vicinity. He was not bothered by our presence and gave us some good shots. Just then the lighting also started to improve with some golden sunshine streaking through.

A little further ahead, we spotted this grey jungle fowl. For a change, he was in no mood to scoot. He was kind enough to pose for a few seconds, while I fired away.

Even as I was reviewing my pictures of the grey jungle fowl, Prem whispered ‘Wild Dogs’! As I looked up, there they were. Trotting down the game path with puppies in tow.

The mood in the jeep was suddenly upbeat and everybody got ready to shoot. Having photographed the same pack in February 2008, I was sure that they would give us ample opportunities to shoot them from a close distance. The puppies had grown up and were daring enough to come close to our jeep. The adults were not bothered by our presence and went about their natural behavior.

We decided to stick with this pack and the cameras were clicking at a brisk pace. The dogs seem to take no offence to our presence and were all around the jeep. We were also lucky to see the close bonding between the adults and the puppies and their social interaction.

Our jeep just then started to have some problem with the starter unit and had to be pushed a few times to get it going. With this in mind, we had to maintain a safe distance from the pack - so as not to disturb them. The dogs were in a playful mood and some of them were plain lazy. They took turns in scent marking the territory and were very relaxed. We too parked our vehicle and were busy shooting-reviewing-deleting images.
Around the same time, one of our guys (I guess it was Srikanth) noticed a Muntjac (barking deer) not too far away, heading towards us. The deer was unaware of the wild dogs’ presence and surprisingly for a barking deer, was not too keen to get away from a tourist jeep. The deer happened to cross the road and walk straight towards the waiting wild dogs. By this time, I noticed that the dogs had seen the approaching deer, and were in a crouching position. It was a tense few seconds…what would happen next?
And then all hell broke loose. The dogs pounced from their low positions and the deer jumped helter skelter. The dogs got into a formation and tried to surround the fleeing deer.

The muntjac jumped onto the game path and jumped back into the jungle again. Both the prey and predator were caught unawares! The dogs were too relaxed for a hunt, but the barking deer was it’s usual alert self.

The hunting party disappeared into the jungle and we were sure of them having made a kill.

After a few minutes of discussion and reviewing our pictures, we decided to move out. A little further down the game path, we saw the wild dogs resting. That’s when we realized that the muntjac had made a safe escape and the dogs were unsuccessful in their hunt.
So much drama in front of us…just like those cable channels on television.
About 200 meters down the road, we saw two muntjacs at a salt lick. One of them disappeared into the jungle, as soon as we got closer. The one in the picture below, looked to be pregnant and continued to have it’s share of the salt, oblivious to our presence. The dogs too were unaware of it’s presence so close to them.

Having seen so much action, we returned to the camp wondering what the remaining two game drives would be like. None of the other jeeps had seen much except for a few elephants and gaur.
Day 2: 16th April 2008 - Evening game drive
There had been plenty of cat sightings in the past few days and so we too were hopeful of seeing a couple if not many! And most of these sightings were during the evening game drives. So off we drove into the jungles without knowing what was in store for us. We came across small herds of elephants, gaur and spotted deer. The skies were again overcast and the good lighting that we had in the morning safari seemed to have deserted us.
We then heard from another jeep that they had just seen a leopard cross the game road and so our hopes soared again. We kept driving around, with nothing much to photograph as there was no good light and not much of animal movement. Only a few Hanuman langurs seem to co-operate.

We did see three serpent eagles at close distances but not very good for photography. Our jeep too seemed to be un-cooperative, with the starter trouble recurring again. So after a few pushes and shoves we decided to head back to base. This was one of those dull safaris with nothing much to do.
It is on such ‘photographically’ dry days that the company of great friends matters. My friends on this tour kept all our moods on an up swing and this created a very positive atmosphere.
Day 3: 17th April - Morning game drive
This was our last game drive in the Kharapura forest range for this mid-April tour. There was not much mist but it was still a bit cloudy. As we drove past the ‘S’ bend on Appaiah road, we heard the alarm calls of a Hanuman langur. We stopped in our tracks and strained all our senses in the direction of the alarm call. The langur continued to call persistently for almost 20-25 minutes. In between there were warning calls from a spotted deer also. The langur continued to call but to no avail. We simply couldn’t sight anything. Prem tried his level best scanning every tree and every bush. There were no other sightings reported on the wireless either.
We were returning to the camp, wondering if we should extend our stay by another day, when I spotted this Crested Serpent eagle on the main road. I shot off a few frames before he decided to go his way.

The discussion to extend our stay was inconclusive, when I decided that Prem should take a call. He was not very comfortable with our idea of extending our safaris and he suggested that we return in May. Taking his cue, I told the guys that we should indeed pack our bags and leave to Bangalore after breakfast.
It was during breakfast that I got a call from Praveen Dwarkanath and he informed me that there was a sighting of 5 tigers (a mother and 4 cubs) together in Bandipur on the previous evening. He urged that we should head straight to Bandipur, instead of returning to Bangalore. Sure enough, this was a very tempting idea. I called up JLR at Bandipur and the Manager Mr. Gangaswamy was kind enough to welcome us over. So with renewed vigor, we packed our bags and drove to Bandipur, hoping to see a couple of tigers, if not five of them!
More on the Bandipur safaris in the Bandipur-April 2008 blog.
Yet again, another memorable wildlife tour to Kabini came to an end. Special thanks are due to the staff at JLR Kabini, especially for Bheema, the boatman and Prem, our driver/naturalist, for making this happen.
Many thanks for my tour companions for their help and co-operation for making this a memorable trip.
All the pictures seen on this post were shot with Canon DSLRs and Canon lenses.